My Medical Adventure actually started with two fun evenings.
The first in Corfu, at the Pumphouse in Acharavi, as guests of our dear friends Tony and Sally, where the cool leafy surroundings, the creative food and excellent wine proved the perfect setting in which to say our goodbyes, for a while...
The next evening I was in England, in my home county of Kent! Caroline, Theresa and I, chauffered by my grandson Paul, went to the Belvedere Tandori we know and like a lot, for an indulgent experience of wine, poppadoms and delectably spicy dishes prepared with Indian care for English appreciation.
Early next morning, I was whisked by cab, with Caroline for company, down the familiar motorways to Heathrow. Thence onto a luxurious Croatian Airways plane. At Zagreb, I was greeted warmly by Mario Marinov, more of him later, and a chauffered Mercedes transported us via unfamiliar but efficient new motorways, passing varied scenery, mountains, flatland, and on to Opatija, and a spa hotel by the sea, which was to be my main residence for the next few weeks.
There followed two days of very intensive medical tests, the details of which will not be elaborated upon.
Relaxing in bed, about 10 o’clock on a very warm evening, I was surprised by a phone call announcing that Professor Nemec was on his way up to my room to see me.
It was our first meeting and an extremely pleasant introduction to the great man. He did not say much about my forthcoming experience except almost as an aside, that I would receive an injection in my lower back, and that some people liked to remain conscious throughout.
I, not as an aside, made it very clear that I was not one of these. He replied that I would have a pill and sleep. Suits me.
On Sunday evening, I was taken to the clinic – Othopaedic Hospital Dr Nemec, and comfortably installed in an attractive room, shared with a Croatian lady, Rosa.
Lithe Professor Nemec called in unexpectedly (as is his way) for a ‘chat’ – told me that I was first on the list in the morning, and also adding I would walk quickly as I am slim! Nice compliment.
Dr Nemec is so relaxed that he makes one feel relaxed too. A definite achievement for someone as apprehensive as me.
Monday 14th June. The Op', of which I was happily completely ignorant, (pill to make me sleep? I have no recollection of that or of anything) just waking comfortably in floating mode, to be told by a delightful young surgeon wearing a bright check cap -
‘You have a new hip.’!
I think I squeaked something quite silly and inadequare - 'thank you'...
When Mike came in to see me I think I was still in a very unreal dreamy state of mind.
However, the next day, I was actually 'walking' a few hesitant steps with elbow sticks, encouraged by 'bravos!' from the staff.
Stepping out, in the Clinic foyer with one of the lovely nurses
Very little English spoken here - (I picked up a few necessary Croatian words and phrases, but amazingly found my extremely rusty German the most useful, particularly with Rosa.)
Professor Nemec speaks happy and positive English but then he is a happy and positive gentleman.
Meanwhile, Mike, exploring Town in true Mike-fashion, experienced a communication episode recently, when trying to buy an umbrella. it rains a lot, and failing to make the shop assistant understand his dilemma. (I am not surprised when he demonstrated his 'mime'!) Then he spied a lady carrying just the item. He asked her politely, I am English, what is that called in Croatian? She replied 'Umbrella'.
Mike at first found the 'locals' looked on him with suspicion. But gradually he was recognised and often enjoyed a glass (or three) of Croatian wine in a bar in the evenings.
Thursday 17th
After only three days of recovery, it’s Moving day! Scary to think about. But in practice, I made a successful exit from the Clinic on my trusty sticks, outside into the fresh and sunny Croatian air, down a ramp to a people carrier, and actually climbed unaided into it...
...And out again, when we reached our destination. I was escorted by a charming physio fellow and settled in a private annex (Magnolia House – and there is a giant magnolia tree outside).
The annex is attached to the original Hotel where I stayed when first arriving here – having private rooms, surgeries and the physio complex, completely geared up for the after care required, attended by doctors, nurses, constant supervision. Oh and two daily physio sessions. There is a Spa - swimming pool complex, but I was not allowed there yet. Mike had to bravely invade ‘ladies’ sportswear shops to get me aerobics type clothes (I didn't think about that side of things) - the physio is a bit like aerobics lying down, nice music too...
No alcohol although no-one has actually said, but I think not. Strange I really don't miss it! Yet!
Internet - Mike located an internet café which is (surprisingly) up to date he reported – and he equipped my laptop with a posh Vodafone USB gadget – or to give it the technical name - high speed modem!. Great! contact with the outside world again!
Weather - there have been lots of thunder storms. A relief that it wasn’t too hot, although of course the room is air conditioned.
By the way I was amazed how much water the physiotherapists consume, they guzzle from large bottles almost continually but they do work hard on our behalf of course - in a cool kinda way.
Ready for my first trip down to the Hotel restaurant
The following Monday evening, Mike took me away from all that - to a Restaurant, Evergreen, my first outing. I made it confidently on my sticks, down many flights of steps from the Hotel to the car - and Wow! didn't it feel weird being whisked along at speed through busy holiday traffic! We enjoyed a superb meal. But when we left and Mike pulled car up to the door for me, a pedestrian started shouting at him - Mike waved my sticks at the bloke and shouted back. Elbow crutch rage!
That's something he's learned about some Croatians; they can be impatient...
All the nursing staff are lovely, and Mike has made good friends with some locals and reported that his B & B landlady is delightful.
Talking history, Our mentor and guide, Mario, told us of the traumas he recalls when the former Yugoslavia fell into chaos. Events like when your neighbour suddenly just vanished, the real fear of what was going to happen and what sort of dangers lurked. Occasionally, there are TV programmes on the terrible subject, images of the horrors of that war. It is still very much in the minds of people here. We in Britain have never really known such frightening uncertainties and should count ourselves fortunate. But it's only when hearing people talking first hand that one can appreciate the traumas such regions have lived through. Croatia seems to have pulled itself up the hard way and really working at building its infrastructure.
Talking of pulling one’s self up the hard way, good progress on the elbow crutches. Every now and then I stand unaided forgetting that I should be levering myself up with them. Forget that!
In two weeks, I had been 'practising' in private; getting about using only one 'stick' and boldly I went public and confessed to my physiotherapist. Too soon, he chastised me, it's not three weeks until next Monday. But he added, in your room it's OK. Well, that's something I thought recovering from being shot down in flames.
However a day later, I had my last appointment with Professor Nemec. And it was lovely to see the staff again and receive their compliments on my walking skills! I demonstrated my ‘one stick trick' to Professor Nemec and he didn't turn a silver hair, Yes it's fine, he said, you are walking very well. Hurrah! And it IS under three weeks.
The Spa was an exhilarating experience, for the reason that Maria, my new found friend from the physio sessions, who speaks English! and I, as ‘star pupils’, had to negotiate flights of marble stairs, then a long corridor, and then traversing the pools, and making our first tentative descents into the water. Marvellous to conscientiously go through our exercises. Then the scary return journey to our rooms. That first visit to the Spa was exhausting, but it got better every day. It is sea water with minerals, in architecturally pleasing surroundings.
The day before our departure, Mikke and I attended a video shoot, in the form of a conversation relating our experience of coming to Croatia for orthopaedic treatment. Mario manages the commercial aspect for medical companies throughout Croatia, dental, cosmetic surgery, eye laser treatment and of course the orthopaedic practice. He was telling us of a phone call he took from a lady in Australia, coming over for tummy tucks! The overall prices are generally below those in other European countries and therefore becoming more attractive as the services get known about.
We all enjoyed the session, Video Stars for an hour!
Well the Croatian prices may be less expensive but they certainly don’t stint on quality in our experience.
The tourist season is thriving here. Opatjia a spa resort, evolved long ago by the Austrians, tremendously popular with Germans, Austrians, Italians.
The famous statue Maiden with the Seagull
Me, enjoying the evening in our beautiful Croatian Restaurant
Friday - last physio sessions, and then packing. And in the evening, a return to the restaurant where Mike took me last Monday. Beautiful surroundings, fine food, good wine - and no elbow crutch rage.
During his stay, Mike bought and stashed away quite a few bottles of Croatian wine to take home, as he's seriously impressed by it.
We drove out of Croatia on Saturday 3rd July, relieved to do so, to feel a sense of normality again, despite the excellence of the attention I received.
Leaving Croatia, and entering Slovenia (where our Greek car and British passports faintly disturbed the curious Slovenian customs police) we made our way the 300 Km to Podvelka near Maribor. This is where to our former neighbours are living. The scenery seems reminiscent of the Austrian Alps.
Slovenia was unexpectedly pretty, stunning mountains and valleys. We enjoyed a marvellous late lunch en route to our friends, at a delightful restaurant.
The Restaurant with the Memorable lunches
Our friends from Corfu days, Philip and Shelagh, drove out to meet us.
They have converted a large old farmhouse into an inviting guest house for touring cyclists.
Their website: http://www.sloveniaholiday.eu/. The farmhouse is delighfully situated in a valley near a vast river that reflects the greenery surrounding it on both banks. It is really worth a visit.
We were all so pleased to see each other again after five years. Next day, Sunday, a hilarious lunchtime drink at a bar that turned into a bit of a session.
On Monday Philip took us to Maribor, where we lunched in a hotel which somehow conveyed the feel of byegone colonial days.Tuesday was the best day of all here. We went to an area with huge retail outlets. Mike and Philip explored Bauhaus – DIY man’s paradise. Tools etc etc. Shelagh and I sat outside in the sunshine with coffees, and chatted.
Then we went to the French supermarket – what a place, bought some gorgeous French cheeses.
The spacious farmhouse nestling in its wonderful valley.
Unforgettable lunch, Philip, Shelagh, and us
Wonderful to glimpse Venice again, still the same magical effect for us, as the ferry slid out to sea. From windows in the bar, enjoying the breathtaking panoramic vista of Venice.
What a shame about enormous yachts moored so intrusively, owners intent on obscuring and diminishing the unique Venetian architecture, to flaunt the ugly gains of their wealth.
27 tiring hours later, we landed at Corfu.
Life here in Corfu seems to go as more or less as normal. The problems facing Greece don’t touch us too much, except for the medical aspects in which we have, not without justification, completely lost faith, and a noticeable lack of tourists on the island...
But swimming is a perfect way to cool down during July's ever rising temperatures!
Our big ginger Q cat, ecstatically pleased to welcome Mike, presented him with a very dead little viper. His own unique present...
Five weeks on - walking happily (sticks have been redundant for some time)
Today, amongst our mountainous dishes of salads, we enjoyed a treat that I had prepared earlier - gathered for us by our friends amongst other delicasies from their greenhouse -
Beetroot from Slovenia !
